Self-reflection was at the heart of the recently concluded New York Fashion Week. Many designers have decided to look inward and focus on merging self-care and fashion.
For example, Proenza Schouler's Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez reflected on the state of the world, fashion, and the need for pause and self-examination. Protectionist touches pervaded their collections, from the cowls attached to jackets to the shawls wrapped around bare shoulders, elevating the pieces.
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Carolina Herrera's Wes Gordon, on the other hand, equated beauty with strength, proposing the idea of decadent yet tough nighttime glamour. From the signature Bloom's prints to the big round shoulders of her dresses, the collection had a sweet mix of strength and fragility. Kite designer Kathryn Holstein has models wearing glossy red lips (her mother always kept lipstick on the bedside table) and sunglasses, layered over midi skirts and tapered trousers. Pairing it with a long coat of leather and shearling, she paid a poignant tribute to her late mother.
From the Michael Kors Collection (AFP)
Here are some of the key trends that emerged from New York Fashion Week.
chunky textured outerwear
Chunky shearling, faux fur, and shiny leather coats and jackets were a big part of the fall/winter collections of Eckhaus Latta, Kaito, Proenza Schouler, Ulla Johnson, Coach, and Michael Kors.
Kite, for example, sent out a flurry of capes, parkas, and coats that stood out against the liquid-black backdrop of the runway. Proenza's show was full of tailored, relaxed outerwear with parka-like additions meant to keep you warm, comfortable and stylish.
90s minimalism
Proenza Schouler takes its tailoring cues from iconic 1990s designer Helmut Lang, all of which can be seen in its parkas and jackets. Gabriella Her Hearst had many slip dresses that she coveted.
At Tibi, designer Amy Smilovic was drawn to the comfort-oriented, sporty look of the '90s, layering varsity bombers over polo shirts and styling them with wide-leg denim.
maximalist red carpet dressing
From Prabal Gurung's show (Reuters)
Falguni Shane Peacock, Christian Siriano, and Prabal Gurung stuck to their signature styles for adventurous red carpet attire. This season, shine feathers and ombre feathers are being spotted everywhere, from La He Pointe and Naeem He Khan to Bibs He Mohapatra.
show of force
At Veronica Beard, the late Jane Birkin, an icon of French music and style, influenced the collection. Bibhu Mohapatra referenced the work of photographer Helmut Newton, who documented women in the late 70s and 80s.
From the Laquan Smith show (Reuters)
Lots of pencil skirts
Fall 2024 seems to be all about owning a sexy pencil skirt. We've seen this with several brands including Laquan Smith, Tibi, and Khaite. Most noticeable was the Khaite midi leather skirt, which was cut out at the thigh and paired with above-the-knee boots.
Manish Mishra is a writer and content creator based in Delhi.
